Alex Jong, owner and head baker at Levend Bagelry, knows how much effort goes into making outstanding bagels from scratch, and he wasn’t seeing any chains living up to his expectations. Rather than complaining, the Bolton native sought to improve matters himself. He started Levend in 2015, and last month the bagelry moved into a permanent location at Boston Public Market. The new digs are an upgrade from the farmers’ markets and pop-ups Jong sold at previously, because they allow him to showcase bagel-making for the masses. Every bagel at Levend ($25 for a baker’s dozen) is made on site and starts as a sourdough base mixed in 80-pound to 150-pound batches. Jong hand-shapes every bagel, first making balls of dough, then forming the holes 10 minutes later. The marquee step in the process is boiling the bagels in water and malt extract prior to baking. This step is critical to get a crispy crust and chewy interior, and also provides great theater for market-goers. After the boil, the bagels receive their toppings and bake for 10-12 minutes before hitting the racks. It’s not uncommon for bagels to sell out before Jong can get the next batch in the oven. On a good day, bagels are being baked constantly, with plain, everything, and cheddar being the most popular choices. Breakfast sandwiches and pizza bagels are on the menu, as well. If the reception Jong has received so far is any indicator, Levend has staying power. “I’ve had bagel aficionados tell me they’ve been waiting for a good bagel in Boston,’’ he says. “I think we’re here to stay.’’ Boston Public Market, 100 Hanover St., Boston, www.levendbagelry.com.JON MAEL

Jon Mael can be reached at jmael2014@gmail.com.