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The state of local cheese
Massachusetts Cheese Guild
By Lise Stern
Globe Correspondent

Creamy spheres of fresh mozzarella; firm yellow Prescott, an aged Alpine; pungent Quabbin Blue; mildly tangy Ada’s Honor, a bloomy rind goat cheese; tiny, thimble-shaped Hannahbells. . . This is just a sampling of the 100-plus cheeses produced by the 28 cheesemaking members of the Massachusetts Cheese Guild.

The guild was established in 2012, in an effort to share knowledge and resources. “Farmers, and by extension cheesemakers, are very isolated,’’ said cofounder Barbara Hanley of Shy Brothers Farm in Westport. “I knew what the learning curve had been for us, and I wanted other people not to have to go through that alone.’’ In addition, she said, Massachusetts cheesemakers have been repeatedly winning national awards, and “no one knows. We want to spread the word.’’

Massachusetts has no large, corporate cheesemakers, and almost all are farmstead, meaning the milk comes from their own herds.

“The combined resources of 28 small cheesemakers is more powerful than each could be individually,’’ said Beth Falk, executive director of the guild and owner of the just-opened Mill City Cheesemongers in Lowell.

The guild is behind the Massachusetts Cheese Festival, held this year on Sept. 24 in Somerville. Advance tickets are sold out, but some may be available at the door. The festival will feature more than a dozen Massachusetts cheesemakers, plus area producers of items that pair well with cheese, like cider, preserves, and honey.

Alison Holmes of Seacrest Foods, a distributor in Lynn, is the guild events chair and coordinator of this year’s festival. “Cheese production in Massachusetts has exploded,’’ she observed, noting that when Seacrest started in the 1980s, “all our cheeses were imported, or from Wisconsin and California.’’

Guild membership is not just for cheesemakers. Chefs and people interested in supporting the local cheese industry can also join. Membership has increased by a third since the guild’s founding.

Member Erin Bligh of Dancing Goats Dairy in Newbury makes cheese with milk from her herd of 35 goats. She started in Vermont before moving back to her home state of Massachusetts, which, she says, “was more open to new cheesemakers. Being a guild member has given community support. There’s also a bit of a boost in terms of visibility.’’ For more information, go to www.macheese guild.org. LISE STERN

Lise Stern can be reached at lisezstern@gmail.com.