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Sauerkraut and a sun-kissed wine at Kirkland Tap & Trotter
By Ellen Bhang
Globe Correspondent

While it’s natural to think of Kirkland Tap & Trotter in Somerville as a place for classic cocktails and craft beer, director of operations Carl York hopes you’ll also drop by for the wine. He’s particularly keen on a pairing inspired by Alsace, that charming part of northeastern France, sheltered by the Vosges Mountains, a stone’s throw from Germany. A 2012 Jean Becker Riesling ($28 for a 1 liter bottle) is just right with chef-proprietor Tony Maws’s version of choucroute garnie, featuring house-made kielbasa and bratwurst, plus pork belly cooked sous vide. Those rich meats are grilled, then nestled on warm sauerkraut with roasted carrots, potatoes, and a ramekin of caraway mustard. The dry French white, which York describes as “ripe and sun-kissed,’’ has weight and refreshing acidity, allowing it to connect easily with what’s on the plate. “This is what dinner is all about,’’ he says. “Food and wine that makes you really happy.’’

Kirkland Tap & Trotter, 425 Washington St., Somerville, 857-259-6585, www.kirklandtap andtrotter.com

Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.