Serves 6

Thin slices of crisp, slightly licorice-like fennel are a wonderful complement to spicy shrimp with a delicate orange-ginger dressing. Tandoori refers to the spice mix in the shrimp marinade, which includes several of the same seasonings as those used to flavor the chicken that goes into tandoors, India’s clay ovens.

SHRIMP

2 tablespoons rice wine or sake

1 clove garlic, chopped

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

1½ pounds raw medium shrimp, peeled

2 bulbs fresh fennel (about 1½ pounds total)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1. In a bowl, whisk together the wine or sake, garlic, cumin, and coriander.

2. Make slits lengthwise along the back of the shrimp to butterfly them, removing the veins. Add them to the wine or sake mixture and toss well; set aside for 10 minutes.

3. Trim off and discard the fennel stalks and a slice from the root end; reserve the fennel fronds. Holding the bulb firmly, halve it lengthwise, then cut each half into thin slices. Transfer to a bowl. Tear the fennel fronds into small bunches; set aside.

4. In a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the shrimp and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until they turn opaque and are cooked through. Transfer to the bowl of fennel.

DRESSING

Grated rind of 1 orange

½ cup orange juice

? cup olive oil

2½ tablespoons rice vinegar, or to taste

1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger, chopped

1½ teaspoons sugar

Salt and pepper, to taste

4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. In a bowl, combine the orange rind and juice, olive oil, rice vinegar, ginger, sugar, salt, and pepper.

2. Reserve 1 tablespoon each of the parsley and fennel fronds.

3. Add the remaining parsley and fennel fronds to the shrimp mixture. Stir in the dressing. Toss gently. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Garnish with the remaining parsley and fennel. Nina Simonds