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Seafood with a light touch at Porto
Lane Turner/Globe Staff
By Kara Baskin
Globe Correspondent

Where to Porto, a Mediterranean hideaway from Jody Adams, Sean Griffing, and Eric Papachristos. The team also runs the Greenway’s Trade; Adams recently bid farewell to Cambridge’s long-lived Rialto.

What for Seafood and al fresco revelry in the shadow of the Back Bay’s Saks Fifth Avenue.

The scene Nantucket by way of Boylston St. There’s lots of khaki in this room. Servers carry trays of oysters to and fro; men with popped collars squire fresh-faced blondes to the patio. The dining area is done in shades of silver and soothing aqua, calling to mind the sea or a spa — though the acoustics are noisier than Paul Mc­Cartney at Fenway. Adams sits near the open kitchen and raw bar, and several guests pause to pay homage.

What you’re eating Mediterranean-inspired seafood from Adams and chef de cuisine Jon Sanchez, from Cambridge’s newly shuttered Ames Street Deli and Study. The menu is sleek and petite: If you came seeking gloppy lobster rolls, get thee back to Boylston. Instead, choose from a selection of local oysters; raw black bass, fluke, scallops, and tuna; small plates of local lettuces and bread with olive oil; and mains like whole fried fish with okra and peppers or a light swirl of seafood stew. Desserts also err on the lighter side: Greek yogurt semifreddo and white peach sorbet seem (almost) healthy.

Care for a drink? There are several wines by the glass in the $14 range, plus a bottle list folded into categories like “Funk’’ and “Hey, I Know You.’’ A server also alludes to a cocktail cart featuring a specialty drink mixed tableside, unavailable on the night in question. A highball is made with house mineral water, mezcal, and aloe. Canyon Ranch, take note.

Overheard Heaping praise for hot sauce and bread; voyeuristic interludes. “You must try our house-made hot sauce — and you’re going to want to order our bread,’’ winks a confident waitress while an apprentice looks on. A dude rips out his ear buds and barrels through the door. “It’s me! Julian! Julian from the grocery store!’’ he announces to a table of young women, who get up one by one to cuddle him. Three middle-aged women in Capri pants pause in the doorway and gaze toward a high-rise apartment building twinkling in the middle distance. “You can see right into Victoria’s bedroom,’’ one sighs. “She really needs to invest in shades.’’

780 Boylston St. at Ring Road, Back Bay, Boston, 617-536-1234, www.porto-boston.com

Kara Baskin can be reached at kcbaskin@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.