W

hile some bemoan the transition to fall, Teresa Hava embraces change. “It’s time to dust off the reds,’’ declares the general manager at Medfield’s newly minted Nosh & Grog Provisions, formerly Zebra’s Bistro & Wine Bar. It’s easy to see why a 2013 Foxglove Zinfandel from Paso Robles ($12 a glass, $48 a bottle) is a favorite. Hailing from California’s Central Coast, the pour has a full body balanced by bright berry flavors. “It doesn’t get bogged down with dark fruit,’’ she says, but offers a “round, luscious finish’’ that zin lovers crave. The red pairs deliciously with American Bolo, chef Joshua Bottini’s dish of pillowy gnocchi sauced with a hearty Bolognese featuring ground pork, beef, and veal. Served in a petite cast-iron pan, the saucy nubbins of potato pasta arrive in style, topped with melted burrata. This terrific pairing reminds us that change is good.

Nosh & Grog Provisions, 21 North St., Medfield, 508-359-4100, www.noshandgrog.com

ellen bhang

Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.