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Rehashing a South End institution
Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff
By Devra First
Globe Staff

Where to Charlie’s Sandwich Shoppe, the South End institution that opened in 1927, was operated by the Manjourides family from the mid-1940s, and closed in 2014. Restaurateur Evan Deluty (Stella) stepped in and reopened the landmark in January.

What for The famous turkey hash and a perch on a stool where Barack Obama, Duke Ellington, Nomar Garciaparra, or Mark Wahlberg might once have perched. In its early days a “color-blind’’ establishment that welcomed black musicians not permitted to eat where they performed, the no-frills spot has long been a draw for notable guests.

The scene A classic diner, tiny and timeless. There are 12 red vinyl stools at the counter and five tables. “All tables are shared. Do unto others as you would have them do unto you,’’ reads one sign. “No parking after eating,’’ reads another. The walls are decorated with photos of visitors from over the years. Seated beside two construction workers in gray hoodies, an Irish businessman chats with a pink-ponytailed lass at the counter, as a fashionable young fellow darts in for breakfast to go. Cooks work the griddle, deftly cracking eggs as they joke in Spanish. Thick white plates are stacked above the stove; seasoned skillets are piled high with golden potatoes. On the shelves are boxes of cornflakes, Sysco classic plain salt, packaged bread. A visit to Charlie’s is a counterpoint to the artisanal version of the South End. “More coffee?,’’ a waitress offers. The divine breakfast smells of grease and sugar waft through the air, and snow falls gently outside. It’s a perfect morning.

What you’re eating Turkey hash, a highly seasoned pancake of turkey, potatoes, carrots, and more, topped with two eggs cooked to order, toast on the side. If not that, blueberry griddle cakes are the way to go.

Care for a drink? Coffee, hot and plentiful, please.

Overheard Talk of obstacle courses, pop music, the neighborhood, and favorite diners. “One hash, over-hard,’’ calls a staffer with a sleek ponytail and long pink nails to the cooks. “Another hash, scrambled, side of bacon.’’ “What is turkey hash?,’’ asks a tall, slim fellow in a black ski cap of the man behind the counter, who seems equipped to answer: He is wearing a T-shirt that reads “Where hash rules.’’ “In a few weeks, we’re going to be doing breakfast, lunch, and dinner,’’ a staffers informs a job applicant, ushering him behind the counter for a peek. A woman in a red-checked shirt and backward ballcap, thick silver hoops in her ears, bumps her hip into a friend’s and croons along with Magic 106.7: “Love me like you dooo.’’

429 Columbus Ave., South End, Boston, 617-536-7669.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.