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counteract those holiday calories
Smoked trout and wild rice salad is a healthy alternative for dinner. (Dina Rudick/Globe Staff)
By Gordon Hamersley
Globe Correspondent

The Christmas card I got from my enthusiastic trainer asking why I’d “disappeared’’ instilled serious guilt. So today I’m back at it, after eating with abandon during the holidays and blowing off the gym for a month.

January is not a time I generally think of making cold stuff for dinner, but hearty, main course salads are filling and packed with flavor. The key is to layer together ingredients that are well balanced and have complementary flavors and textures.

Seeing as I’m eating this for dinner, I want some fiber and a bit of bulk, so I start with wild rice, which has a lovely, unique flavor. It’s actually not rice at all but a type of grass cultivated in the Great Lakes region. Wild rice has a distinctive texture, both chewy and soft, and it combines well with whatever you happen to put it with. It takes more time to cook than regular rice (45-60 minutes), and you’ll know it’s done when the outer shell of the grain splits and you see the light gray interior. Add the dressing to the rice while it is still slightly warm. This aids the infusion process.

For the dressing, I’m thinking big flavors might be best. A spoon of bright, tangy Dijon mustard and another of zesty horseradish fit the bill. Red wine vinegar adds an extra acid kick to help finish the dressing.

Next comes smoky trout. It’s fairly low in fat and calories, but the smoke still gives it a strong flavor. Smoked trout is sold with most of the bones removed, and the rest are really easy to deal with. Just strip the trout of its skin and pull out any little pin bones with your fingers. Then break the fillets into bite-size pieces and you’re ready to go.

As a counterpoint, add apple to the mix. Macouns or Granny Smiths are perfect, with their crisp texture and sweet-and-sour flavor. Then come bitter Belgian endive and radicchio, as well as Bibb lettuce for a silky texture. They work well with the rich smokiness of the trout. Finally, sprinkle on thinly sliced, toasted almonds for a nutty crunch.

I’m a gym binger, and I’m guessing I’m not alone. But in January we all show up, trying to lose those holiday-induced pounds. Coming home to a satisfying winter salad is just what the trainer ordered.

Gordon Hamersley can be reached at cookingwithgordonhamersley@gmail.com.