Print      
Recipes for fruity icebox pies
Cookie crumb crusts and seasonal fillings make the perfect summer dessert.
By Adam Ried

Much as I love a good summer berry pie, when the heat and humidity ramp up, I can be reluctant to bake them. So I gravitate toward recipes in which fruity fillings are made on the stove top and paired with quickly baked cookie crumb crusts.

At a farmers’ market years ago, I bought a raspberry pie with a chocolate-lined crust that I loved, and, after re-creating it, have made ever since. Of course, strawberries and rhubarb are a classic late spring/early summer combo and segue naturally into pie.

Make sure to give these pies sufficient time in the fridge to set fully and chill thoroughly. Also, if you substitute a store-bought crumb crust for a homemade one, bake it briefly (and then cool it completely) to crisp it up before filling it.

BLACK-BOTTOM RASPBERRY

REFRIGERATOR PIE

Makes 1 9-inch pie

A sprinkling of shaved chocolate and/or a few fresh raspberries make pretty decorations for this dessert.

For the crust:

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened, plus 5 tablespoons, melted and warm

40 plain chocolate wafer cookies (such as Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers) from a 9-ounce package

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Salt

4 ounces semi- or bittersweet chocolate, melted

For the filling and topping:

3½ tablespoons cornstarch

5 cups fresh or frozen raspberries (thawed)

¾ cup sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup heavy cream, whipped with 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon vanilla until firm peaks form

With the rack in the center position, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch pie plate with the 2 teaspoons softened butter and set aside. In a food processor, process the cookies to fine crumbs, about 15 seconds (you should have about 2 cups crumbs). Add the brown sugar and a pinch of salt, and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly add the melted butter and process until the mixture resembles wet sand, about 20 seconds. Pour the mixture into the pie plate and press into an even, compact layer across the bottom and up the sides. Bake for 12 minutes and cool completely on a wire rack (crust will firm up as it cools). Scrape the melted chocolate into the cooled pie crust, spread it into a thin layer across the bottom and up the sides, and set aside until the chocolate hardens, at least 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch and ¼ cup water until smooth, and set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 1½ cups of the raspberries, the sugar, cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon salt to a bare, steamy simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Re-whisk the cornstarch mixture, add it to the pan, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and reaches a gentle boil (you should see bubbles breaking the surface if you stop stirring for a moment), about 2 minutes. Continue cooking at a gentle boil, stirring gently and constantly (and reaching into the corners of the pan) for 1½ minutes longer. Off heat, add the butter and the vanilla, stir to melt and incorporate the butter, and set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Add the remaining raspberries and fold gently to combine. Scrape the mixture into the pie shell, smooth the top, and set aside to cool until barely warm, at least 20 minutes. Cover loosely and refrigerate until well chilled and the filling is firm, at least 4 hours to overnight. Spread the whipped cream on the pie, leaving a small ring of raspberry filling visible around the edge, decorate as desired, and serve.

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB

REFRIGERATOR PIE

Makes 1 9-inch pie

If you fancy a creamy element, you could top this pie with a thin layer of whipped cream, as with the Black-Bottom Raspberry Refrigerator Pie. Whipped cream topping or not, a few fresh strawberry slices or quarters, arranged artfully, seem like a natural decoration for this dessert.

For the crust:

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened, plus 5 tablespoons, melted and warm

4 cups (about 8 ounces) animal crackers

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Salt

For the filling:

¾ cup sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated zest and ½ cup juice from 1 large orange

1 pound rhubarb (about 4 stalks), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)

Salt

2 pints fresh strawberries (about 1 pound), rinsed, hulled, and quartered (about 3 cups prepared)

3½ tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

With the rack in the center position, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch pie plate with the 2 teaspoons softened butter and set aside. In a food processor, process the animal crackers to fine crumbs, about 20 seconds (you should have about 2 cups crumbs). Add the brown sugar and a pinch of salt, and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly add the melted butter and process until the mixture resembles wet sand, about 20 seconds. Pour the mixture into the pie plate and press into an even, compact layer across the bottom and up the sides. Bake for 12 minutes and cool completely on a wire rack (crust will firm up as it cools).

In a large microwave-safe bowl, stir the sugar and orange zest until moist and fragrant. Add the rhubarb and ½ teaspoon salt, and microwave on high for 1 minute. Stir and continue to microwave on high until the rhubarb is barely warm and the sugar is partially dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes longer, stirring again after 1 minute. Add 1 cup of the prepared strawberries, stir to mix, scrape the mixture into a large saucepan, and set aside to macerate for 30 minutes (it should generate about ½ cup of syrupy juices). Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch and orange juice until smooth.

Bring the rhubarb mixture to a bare, steamy simmer over medium-high heat. Re-whisk the cornstarch mixture, add it to the pan, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and reaches a gentle boil (you should see bubbles breaking the surface if you stop stirring for a moment), about 2 minutes. Continue cooking at a gentle boil, stirring gently and constantly (and reaching into the corners of the pan) until the rhubarb is soft but not fully collapsed, about 1½ minutes longer. Off heat, add the vanilla, stir to incorporate it, and set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Add the remaining strawberries and fold gently to combine. Scrape the mixture into the pie shell, smooth the top, and set aside to cool until barely warm, at least 20 minutes. Cover loosely and refrigerate until well chilled and the filling is firm, at least 4 hours to overnight. Decorate as desired, and serve.

PINA COLADA

(PINEAPPLE-COCONUT-RUM) PIE

Makes 1 9-inch pie

For the crust:

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened, plus 5 tablespoons, melted and warm

2 cups (about 4 ounces) animal crackers

1 tablespoon sugar

Salt

¾ cup sweetened flaked or shredded coconut

For the filling:

1¼ cups coconut milk

2/3 cup pineapple juice

½ cup half-and-half

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

¼ cup light or amber rum, optional

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

Salt

4 large egg yolks

3½ tablespoons cornstarch

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup heavy cream, whipped with 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon vanilla until firm peaks form

3 tablespoons sweetened flaked or shredded coconut, lightly toasted, for decoration

With the rack in the center position, heat the oven to 325 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch pie plate with the 2 teaspoons softened butter and set aside. In a food processor, process animal crackers until finely and evenly ground, about 15 seconds (you should have about 1 cup crumbs). Add the sugar and a tiny pinch of salt, and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly add the melted butter and process until the mixture resembles wet sand, about 20 seconds. Add the coconut and pulse several times to combine with the crumb mixture. Pour the mixture into the pie plate and press it across the bottom and up the sides of the pie plate, packing it tightly until even and compact.

Bake until the crust is fragrant and the color deepens, about 15 minutes, rotating the pie plate 180 degrees about halfway through the baking time. Place the pie plate on a wire rack and cool the crust completely.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the coconut milk, pineapple juice, half-and-half, lime juice, rum (if using), ½ cup sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt to a bare, steamy simmer, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks, cornstarch, and the 1 tablespoon of sugar until smooth. Whisking constantly, very gradually add about 1 cup of the warm juice mixture (to gently raise the temperature of the eggs). Continuing to whisk constantly, gradually add most of the rest of the warm juice mixture to the egg mixture. Pour the egg-juice mixture back into the saucepan, return it to medium heat, and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches a gentle boil (you should see bubbles breaking the surface if you stop stirring for a moment), about 2 minutes. Continue cooking at a gentle boil, stirring gently and constantly (and reaching into the corners of the pan) for about 1½ minutes longer.

Off heat, add the vanilla, stir to incorporate it, and set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Scrape the mixture into the pie shell, smooth the top, and set aside to cool until barely warm, at least 20 minutes. Cover loosely and refrigerate until well chilled and the filling is firm, at least 4 hours to overnight. Spread the whipped cream on the pie, leaving a small ring of filling visible around the edge; sprinkle the whipped cream with the toasted coconut, and serve.

A Taste of Summer

Adam Ried appears regularly on “America’s Test Kitchen.’’ Send comments to cooking@globe.com.