Q. We have lived in our home for 25 years. Last year, we had ice dams for the first time. They caused leaks in a half-dozen spots in our kitchen and dining room. Our roof wasn’t damaged. Last night we got 3 inches of light, fluffy snow. Is it necessary to use our newly purchased roof rake to brush off the snow after each snowfall?

CHRIS, Sherborn

A. Hi, Chris. Welcome to the Last Year’s Ice Dam Club. Last winter was the perfect storm for ice dams: record snowfall, cold spells, raised thermostats that increased the temperature in the home “envelope,’’ and all sorts of insulation, ventilation, and air-leak issues that complicated matters.

I would not break out the rake for 3 inches of snow. Ice dams and icicles will still form but will be minimal. I’d be more concerned with larger snowfalls. I rake my roof when there are 5 or more inches.

Q. Recently my toilet on the second floor started making a sound like it is at the end of the flush cycle. It is not a complete flush, but a small amount must go into the toilet bowl. Would you suggest it is the flapper leaking or the fill valve causing the toilet to cycle on and off by itself?

LEN GOODMAN

A. I’m a carpenter, and I like wood, so with questions like these, I usually turn to my brother the plumber. But I like being a problem solver, and my gut tells me you have a phantom flush. Phantom flushing occurs when water leaks out of the tank and into the bowl without someone touching the lever. My predecessor, Handyman on Call Peter Hotton, handled myriad reader questions on phantom flushes and had a great tip: “Put some vegetable dye in that tank, and keep an eagle eye on the bowl. When you see the colored water go into the bowl, you have confirmed the trickle.’’

When the toilet’s handle is depressed, it operates a flush-valve chain, which lifts the rubber flapper long enough for all the water in the tank to rush into the toilet bowl. As the water leaves, the tank’s float ball falls downward, tilting a ball-cock lever. The ball cock opens a water-inlet valve, which works a bit like a faucet. Water flows in, refilling the tank and pushing the float ball back up again. When the float ball reaches the correct, preset level, the ball-cock lever switches off the water supply, and the toilet is ready to flush again.

If you confirm the leak, there are a few things you can do:

1. Check the flapper and ball and ensure they are seated properly. Replace them if they are not.

2. Check the pull chain. If it is too tight, loosen it.

3. Check the rim under the flapper opening for rust and mineral deposits. If there are deposits, do the following:

¦ Shut off the water-supply valve, which is under the toilet.

¦ Flush the toilet and drain the tank

¦ Remove the flapper

¦ Using fine sandpaper, sand the rim clean

¦ Reinstall the flapper and test. If the phantom flush continues, then replace the flapper. Frankly, if you do find mineral deposits, replace the flapper as cheap insurance, since you already have it off.

Some of the more modern toilets use an “eco-smart tower’’ or an “air-assist’’ mechanism instead of a flapper. In this case, I’m lost and suggest you call a plumber.

Dear Rob

I enjoy your column. Regarding a question you answered about adding insulation on top of vermiculite (“Reasons why a clean bathroom will still stink,’’ Nov. 6), it should be noted that in some cases there may be small amounts of asbestos in vermiculite, so caution should be employed if trying to air seal before adding insulation. Also, I’d say cellulose is a better option than fiberglass; it has a higher R-value and would allow you to cover attic joists for a more complete insulation job. As a state-certified energy auditor, I’d say that having Mass Save give your house an inspection is your best bet. Thank you.

BILL BRANTON

Rob: Thanks for reading and for the tip, Bill.

Rob Robillard is a general contractor, carpenter, editor of AConcordCarpenter.com, and principal of a carpentry and renovation business. Send your questions to homerepair@globe.com or tweet them to @globeaddress or @robertrobillard.