Serves 4

4 dried ancho chile peppers, stems, ribs, and seeds removed

4 dried guajillo chile peppers, stems, ribs, and seeds removed

1 cup hot water

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano

¼ cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

Juice of 1 orange

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

Salt and black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons canola oil

8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)

¼ cup chicken stock

1 small bunch scallions, thinly sliced (for garnish)

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves (for garnish)

Grated rind of 1 orange (for garnish)

1. In a large, dry skillet, over medium heat, toast the chile peppers, turning often, for 3 minutes, or until fragrant. When cool enough to handle, break into medium-size pieces and place in a bowl. Add hot water and soak for 20 minutes.

2. In a food processor, combine the chile peppers and the water used to soften them with the garlic, cumin, oregano, sugar, lemon juice, lime juice, orange juice, soy sauce, salt, and black pepper. Work the mixture to form a sauce. Set aside.

3. In the skillet, over medium-high heat, heat the canola oil. Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and season with salt and black pepper. Working in batches, place the chicken in the pan, skin-side down. Cook without disturbing for 5 minutes, or until the skin is golden brown. Turn and cook 4 minutes more. Transfer the chicken to a bowl and tent with foil.

4. Remove all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the skillet and add the stock. Simmer, stirring to loosen the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, for 3 minutes. Add the sauce to the pan and simmer, stirring, 1 minute more. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and black pepper, if you like.

5. Return the chicken to the pan with any accumulated juices in the bowl. Using tongs, turn each thigh in the sauce to coat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover the pan, and cook, spooning sauce over the thighs occasionally, for 10 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted into the chicken reads 165 degrees.

6. Garnish with scallions, cilantro, and orange rind and serve. Valerie Ryan

Valerie Ryan can be reached at valerie.ryan.j@gmail.com