Makes 4

Oil (for the baking dish)

1½ cups panko breadcrumbs

1¼ pounds boneless salmon (skin intact)

Salt and pepper, to taste

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

½ red pepper, finely chopped

4 scallions, finely sliced

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1½ tablespoons capers, coarsely chopped if large

Finely grated rind of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons lemon juice

¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley

1 whole egg, lightly beaten

1 egg white

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a lightly oiled baking dish, a large skillet with an ovenproof handle, and a large bowl. Line a baking sheet with parchment, and sprinkle it with ½ cup of the panko.

2. In the baking dish, place the salmon. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the smoked paprika. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes, or until slightly rare in the center. Cool in the pan.

3. In the skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the celery, pepper, and scallions. Cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Transfer to a large bowl. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel.

4. With two forks, flake the salmon in the baking dish, discarding the skin and any remaining bones. Transfer it to the bowl of vegetables. Stir in the mayonnaise, mustard, capers, lemon rind, lemon juice, parsley, salt, pepper, and eggs. Stir in ½ cup of the panko.

5. Divide the mixture into 4 portions. With your hands, firmly press each portion into a ball. Flatten and press the balls into 4-inch patties. Set them on top of the panko on the baking sheet. Sprinkle with the remaining panko, and gently coat the patties with crumbs, pressing lightly on them to hold their shape. With a pastry brush, dab the tops of the patties with 2 tablespoons of the oil.

6. Set an oven rack in the middle position and turn on the broiler.

7. In the skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining oil. With a spatula, carefully transfer the cakes to the skillet and cook without moving for 2 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom. Slip the pan into the oven and broil for 5 to 10 minutes, or until golden on top. Remove the skillet from the oven and serve. Sally Pasley Vargas