Sam Kelman and Makenna Goodman run Poor Farm Collective in Vershire, Vt., and produce small batches of dark amber maple syrup the old-fashioned way: with wood-fired evaporators, which imbue the sweet liquid with flavors of smoke and caramel. The syrup is packaged in slim glass bottles ($12 for 8 ounces; about $20 for 16 ounces) and is made with sap from trees on the couple’s 32 acres and collected by four neighboring sugar makers. Because the sap isn’t blended, batches of syrup are single-sourced and distinguished by subtle differences in the soil and microclimate of each maple forest; its taste varies from bottle to bottle. Kelman says all the syrup “has a caramel flavor but can range from buttery to a little more complex, that could be described as earthy.’’ This is not just pancake syrup. You might want to drizzle it on or swirl it into everything. Available at American Provisions, 613 E. Broadway, South Boston, 617-269-6100; Siena Farms South End, 106 Waltham St., Boston, 617-422-0030, and Siena Farms @ Boston Public Market, 100 Hanover St., Boston, 978-793-7305; Joppa Fine Foods, 50 Water St., Newburyport, 978-462-4662; or go to www.poor farmfarm.com.ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

Ann Trieger Kurland can be reached at atrieger@comcast.net.