

IN THE KITCHEN At Kugel’s Deli, an unpretentious, New York-style non-kosher Jewish deli in Framingham, “we tend to be low-key,’’ said owner David Livis. As a result, the deli has built up a loyal customer base over the years. “We have certain guys who come in twice a day, and a few people who don’t even order — we just know what they want,’’ he said.
THE LOCALE The deli is in the brick Trolley Square retail plaza on the westbound side of Route 9, at the intersection with Edgell Road, close to Framingham State University.
Near the entryway, packaged items and snacks, as well as some bulk prepared foods, are for sale, including many shipped in from New York. The feel is decidedly diner-like, with advertisement-packed paper placemats, small televisions over the dining area, and giant plates of well-priced nosh.
ON THE MENU Breakfast is served at all times at Kugel’s. “You have some people who work the night shifts, get up late, and come in at 11 a.m. or noon and want pancakes and toast,’’ Livis said.
For starters, there’s thick-sliced challah French toast ($6.50) with butter, powdered sugar, and maple syrup. The challah comes from New York, as do the deli’s bagels, which are then baked in house each morning.
The lox Benedict ($9.99) includes two poached eggs and nova on an English muffin with hollandaise sauce and home fries.
“Chip’s Benedict’’ ($7.99), meanwhile, is named after a customer who requested an eggs Benedict using avocados and tomatoes. “He said, ‘You have to name it after me,’’’ Livis said.
In the same vein, a customer provided the recipe for matzo ball soup ($5.50), and the suggestion for the “Route 9’’ sandwich ($9.49), with roast beef, gravy, french fries and coleslaw on a bulkie roll, also came from a diner, he said.
Deli staples like the Reuben and Rachel sandwiches don’t disappoint. I ordered the Rachel (for obvious reasons), and was presented with a sandwich ($9.49) piled high with thin-sliced corned beef, layered with Swiss cheese, slathered with Russian dressing, crowned with coleslaw and then grilled on marble rye bread.
The elements all fit together flawlessly. My side of french fries ($1 extra), were a little overcooked, but the half-sour pickle slice was nice.
The Reuben ($9.49) is similar, only replacing coleslaw with sauerkraut. The bread is noteworthy: Sandwiches can be served on white, wheat, rye, dark rye, bulkie and onion rolls, and challah. Either the Reuben or Rachel can be made with roast turkey for $10.25.
For massive appetites, the namesake Kugel’s Reuben ($15.99) combines corned beef, roast beef, and turkey, adding up to a full pound of meat. “Not too many people finish it off,’’ Livis said. Another belt-buster: Kugel’s hot dog ($8.99), which is 18 inches long and weighs about a pound. Laughs Livis, “This is a not a very good place to come if you’re counting calories.’’
The deli’s eponymous kugel ($3.75), sometimes called noodle pudding, makes a great appetizer, side dish, or dessert. Fruit kugel ($3.99) contains pineapple, raisins, Mandarin oranges, and sometimes peaches, cherries, or cranberries.
Potato latkes ($3.99), the well-known potato pancakes, are two to an order, and are served with applesauce or sour cream. For dessert, consider a decadent slice of Junior’s Cheesecake from New York.
Kugel’s Deli is at 855 Worcester Road (Route 9 westbound) in Framingham; 508-620-1300, www.kugelsdeli.com. Monday-Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Rachel Lebeaux can be reached at rachel_lebeaux@yahoo.com or on Twitter @rachjournalist.