Serves 4

Tahini paste, ground from sesame seeds, comes in light and dark roast. For many recipes, including hummus, light tahini is preferable (Sesame King brand, labeled “light roast,’’ is widely available). Other tips to making great hummus: Begin with dried chickpeas (you don’t do anything while they soak overnight), simmer them with baking soda to break down the skins, whir them while they’re hot to make the creamiest texture, then add an ice cube and let it melt while the food processor blade goes round and round. If you want a thinner texture, add another ice cube. If serving as an appetizer, spread in a bowl and add olive oil and sumac to the top (sumac is made from ground red berries and has a slight lemony flavor).

1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

¼ cup light tahini

1 clove garlic, crushed

Juice of 1 lemon, or more to taste

1 small ice cube (still frozen), or more if needed

Olive oil (for sprinkling)

Sumac (for sprinkling)

1. In a saucepan, combine the chickpeas with water to cover. Bring to a boil, skim the surface thoroughly to remove all the scum, then add the baking soda and salt. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the chickpeas are very tender.

2. Drain the chickpeas into a colander and transfer them to a food processor. Add the tahini and garlic. Whir the mixture until almost smooth. Add the lemon juice and continue pulsing until the mixture is thick and smooth. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or lemon juice, if you like.

3. With the machine running, add the ice cube through the feed tube and let the motor run until the ice melts. Remove the lid and check the texture. If the mixture seems too thick, add another ice cube while the machine is running.

4. Transfer to a bowl, smooth the top, and garnish with a sprinkle of olive oil and sumac. Sheryl Julian