Serves 8

The Italian-American fish stew cioppino, invented in San Francisco in the late 1800s, typically consists of clams, scallops, squid, mussels, and Dungeness crab. This Chinese adaptation uses haddock (or hake, flounder, pollock, or another local fish) with scallops, shrimp, rice wine or sake, and ginger. You can prepare the tomato base in advance and add the seafood just before serving.

3½ tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 pieces (1 inch each) fresh ginger, 1 piece finely chopped, 1 thinly sliced

1 heaping teaspoon hot chile paste

2½ onions, chopped

2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped

1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes and their juices

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 bottles (8 ounces each) clam juice

1¾ cup rice wine or sake

4 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons dried oregano

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1½ pounds skinless, boneless haddock or other fish, cut into 1½-inch pieces

1 pound sea scallops, tough muscle removed from side if necessary

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut along the back to butterfly

1. In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, chopped ginger, chile paste, onions, and bell peppers. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes, or until the onions soften. Add the tomatoes and their juices, tomato paste, clam juice, 1 cup of the rice wine or sake, basil, oregano, salt, and black pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.

2. Set the sliced ginger on a cutting board and use the flat side of a large knife to smash it. Transfer to a bowl. Add ¾ cup rice wine or sake and pinch the ginger to flavor the wine. Discard the ginger.

3. Put the fish in one bowl and the scallops and shrimp in another. Add one-third of the ginger-infused wine to the fish; add the remaining two-thirds to the scallops and shrimp. Set aside for 10 minutes.

4. Add the fish to the tomato sauce, partially cover the pan, and simmer for 3 minutes, or until the fish is almost opaque. Add the scallops and shrimp, stir gently, partially cover the pan, and continue cooking for 3 to 4 minutes, or until all the seafood is cooked through. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like. Serve with crusty bread. Nina Simonds