Where to Capo, a South Boston Italian restaurant from the team behind Lincoln Tavern and Loco Taqueria.

What for House-made pasta, pizza, and wood-fired fare from chef Tony Susi, who ran the dearly departed Sage. After stints in New York and the ’burbs, it’s good to see him back in the city.

The scene Two vast rooms chock-full of Southie residents in relaxation mode. The front, with tiled mosaic floors and brass-runged barroom stools, is more Italian train station at rush hour; the back, where logs burn in an enormous stone fireplace and ferns spill from windows high near the ceiling, is more Tuscan lair. Copper pots gleam in the open kitchen. The restaurant is lined with enough wood to populate a small forest, and it feels warm and cozy despite its size. The young and clean-cut drink goblets of red wine by candlelight. Bearded white-haired professors discuss the end of civilization at a round wood table. A woman tucks a bite of pasta into a small boy’s mouth. A gent with a man bun shakes hands with a bare-shouldered woman. There is an impressive number of wool ponchos per capita at the front bar, where a staffer dispenses sangiovese and pinot grigio from a shiny crimson spigot. Servers clad in dark red navigate the room like ghosts in a “Pac-Man’’ maze.

What you’re eating An array of comfortable classics: sfizi, or snacks, such as lobster arancini, burrata with pesto, and meatballs. Rigatoni Bolognese, spinach ravioli, linguine with clams. Pies topped with prosciutto or mushrooms, or a straight-up margherita. Chicken parm and cioppino (pictured). Mini cannoli.

Care for a drink? There are cocktails like the Contessa (gin, Aperol, and Noilly Prat vermouth) and the Bae-Watch (vodka, basil, lime, and ginger beer), the Amaretto sour and the espresso martini. The wine list is Italian, the beer list more local with a Peroni and Moretti twist. The house red and house white are available by the glass, small carafe, large carafe, or (for the truly thirsty) jug.

Overheard Talk about mutual acquaintances, where people are from, and where they live now. “The rent was crazy,’’ a woman breathes, and her friend nods in commiseration. “She owned her own salon. They all came. At a discount, you know,’’ a man confides to his family. “Their wood ceilings are way nicer than my wood floors,’’ someone says, looking up. “They did a great job. It’s gorgeous in here!,’’ says another friend. “I didn’t think it could be bigger than Lincoln.’’ At the bar, hunger sets in: “This small plate implies there will be bread,’’ a woman tells her date. “I might eat the bar fruit,’’ he replies. Soon a Caesar salad arrives to set things right. “Say when,’’ a staffer instructs as he friskily applies pepper. “Here’s a little aperitif to build you up,’’ says another, sliding fortifying glasses toward two guests. “It’s been just past the one-year mark. That’s a long time for one girl,’’ a fellow tells a friend. “In Southie I have no game,’’ a woman comments forlornly.

443 West Broadway, South Boston, 617-993-8080, www.caposouth boston.com.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.