It’s the first week of January, and many are contemplating the “D word’’ to make up for holiday excess. While a slab of fish on a plate with a salad might restore balance, that sort of meal is about as much fun as coming home to a snowstorm after a beach vacation in Hawaii. That’s where these salmon cakes come in: healthy, with a chance of comfort. They are the same size as a burger, and if you want to ease into austerity season, you could enjoy them on a bun.

Paired with mashed potatoes to stretch ingredients, fish cakes have a long history in New England, especially during Lent in the early part of the 20th century. It’s time for a change, though; potatoes have been on the collective menu since Thanksgiving. These cakes rely on eggs and panko breadcrumbs to hold them together. Flaky and light, panko crumbs are made from bread but are crunchier and coarser than standard breadcrumbs.

To make the cakes, start by spiking the salmon with some smoky paprika, then undercook it slightly in the oven. Mix tender flakes of fish with finely chopped vegetables for color and taste, and add zesty mayonnaise, mustard, capers, and lemon for even more flavor. Eggs and panko bring it all together. Shaping these requires a little patience. Press them gently but firmly into balls, then shape them into flat, burger-like disks. Handle them lightly as you coat them with the crumbs, and use a spatula to transfer them to an ovenproof skillet. After browning on one side on top of the stove, leave them in the pan and transfer it to the oven (without turning) to slowly broil on a middle rack, away from direct heat. Broiler heat varies greatly from one oven to another, so keep an eye on them as they cook. You end up with a crunchy golden crust and a center that is hot but not overcooked. You also forgo the mess and fuss of stovetop frying, not to mention the copious amounts of oil required in that method. You’ll feel good starting the year off by eating well without sacrificing one iota of flavor.

Sally Pasley Vargas

Sally Pasley Vargas can be reached at sally.vargas@mac .com.