Legendary chef Jacques Pépin has criticized reality cooking shows for being anything but real, and casting a negative light on the restaurant industry.
Chef Jody Adams agrees.
Adams recently shared a link on Facebook that references Pepin’s views, which he outlined in an open letter. Pepin wrote that TV shows that portray kitchens as chaotic workplaces where chefs swear, hurl insults, and humiliate their crews are “a disservice to our trade and to young people who want to go into this business.’’
“In these reality shows, the confrontation and the bitter drama are not conducive to producing good food,’’ Pepin wrote. “A good kitchen is quiet most of the time. It is disciplined, well structured, and clean. People who cook there are dedicated and work together. . . . It is not exciting or dramatic enough for TV.’’
In a telephone interview, Adams echoed those sentiments.
“Most restaurants are not run like to the extremes you see on TV,’’ she said.
Adams herself has been featured on television, as have many other Boston chefs, including Todd English, Mary Dumont, Chris Coombs, Tiffani Faison, and Ming Tsai.
Adams said she enjoyed being on the “Ready Set Cook’’ show several years ago, and, more recently, “Top Chef Masters.’’
“Top Chef Masters’’ is “not as cut-throat as others appear to be,’’ she said. “I had a good time.’’ She also noted that her personable and approachable demeanor didn’t add any drama to the show. “I didn’t necessarily make great TV. I was too nice,’’ she said.
But for many reality TV producers, she said, “the need for conflict . . . has been taken to an extreme.’’
Adams is involved with three restaurants: Trade, Saloniki, and Porto, the last of which she recently opened with Eric Papachristos and Sean Griffing. In her kitchens, “Nobody is screaming or throwing pans,’’ she said. Adams noted Julia Child’s advice that you should be happy when you cook for the food to be good. “You can tell if food is made with love,’’ Adams said.
Like Pepin, she fears that over-the-top reality shows may keep some folks from pursuing a career in the culinary industry.
What would she tell aspiring chefs who have such reservations?
“Come work for me.’’